Wave Parameters

Our buoys collect the bulk wave parameters listed below as well as wind speed and direction, barometric pressure, and sea surface temperature. Here are some definitions of the data which is collected:

• Significant wave height: Significant wave height is an average measurement of the largest third (33 %) of waves. We measure the top third of waves because larger waves are more important than smaller waves as they can do more work. For example, these waves are the main driver of coastal erosion.

• Wave period: Wave period is the time (in seconds) for two successive wave crests (one wavelength) to pass a specified point.

• Peak wave period: The wave period associated with the most energetic waves in the wave spectrum at a specific location. Wave regimes dominated by swell waves tend to have larger peak wave periods (and wavelengths). Locally generated wind waves tend to have smaller peak wave periods (and wavelengths).

• Mean wave period: The average wave period from the wave record.

• Wave direction: The direction where the waves are coming from. Wave direction is given in degrees relative to north (° N).

• Peak wave direction: The wave direction where the most energetic waves are coming from in the wave spectrum at a specific location.

• Mean wave direction: The average wave direction from the wave record.

The wave buoys also collect more detailed spectral data. If you would like this data, please fill out the contact form , including the dates you want data for, and we will provide this free of charge.